Cruising · 2023

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France · Belgium · Netherlands · 2023

Paris to Coevorden
— and south again.

Cities, tunnels, commercial waterways — and open water.

Our longest season began at Moret-sur-Loing and Paris, then carried us north through Belgium and the Netherlands to Coevorden. The return brought an IJsselmeer crossing, time in Amsterdam and the journey south through Belgium.

2 May—9 November 379¼ hours 158 locks
View the recorded route Schematic waterway route for 2023 A reconstructed circuit from Moret-sur-Loing and Paris north through Belgium and the Netherlands, returning through Belgium and northern France. Moret-sur-Loing Paris Rotterdam Amsterdam Coevorden Maastricht · Liège Mons · Compiègne

Reconstructed from our cruising record · schematic waterway circuit, not GPS

Moret-sur-Loing · After winter

A lovely place to winter.

Moret-sur-Loing had been peaceful and intimate, with space for only five barges. Now we were heading back towards Paris.

Moret-sur-Loing after winter · 30 April
Back towards Paris · 3 May
Alongside a larger neighbour on the way to Paris · 3 May

One of those wonderfully peaceful stops that make travelling slowly worthwhile.

A peaceful mooring · 4 May

Paris · 6–10 May

The gateway north.

We knew the Arsenal well by now, but this time Paris was not the destination. It was where the next adventure really began.

Port de l’Arsenal by night · 6 May
Our Arsenal mooring · 10 May

Paris · 13–20 May

Friends aboard. Then north.

Dave and Valerie joined us aboard in Paris. A week later, Kaz was ready to get moving again.

Dave and Valerie on Maria’s deck in Paris
Dave and Valerie aboard in Paris · 13 May
Kaz smiling aboard Maria, wearing a sun hat and lifejacket
Kaz — first mate, main lady, and ready to get moving again.

North from Paris · 27 May

Into the tunnels. Between the walls.

The route north took Maria underground and through deep locks. From the deck of a 25-metre barge, the length of a tunnel and the height of the walls become very tangible.

Maria’s deck stretching into the long, illuminated darkness of a canal tunnel
Underground on the route north · 27 May
Maria’s deck between the high stone walls of a lock
A lock-sized passage for a 25-metre barge · 27 May

Commercial waterways · 2 June

The neighbours grew larger.

Maria shared the commercial routes with working ships that made a 25-metre barge suddenly look quite modest.

“Out with the big boys.”

A large commercial vessel and dock cranes seen from Maria’s deck
Sharing the commercial waterways · 2 June
Out with the big boys · 2 June

The Netherlands · 3–17 June

Rotterdam ahead.

Arriving by water changes the way a city appears. The approach to Rotterdam unfolded beyond Maria’s deck; ashore, there was a different kind of traffic.

A major bridge on the approach to Rotterdam seen over Maria’s deck
Approaching Rotterdam from Maria · 3 June
Rows of parked bicycles in the Netherlands
Bikes. Bikes. Bikes. · 17 June

Coevorden · July

Out of her element.

Coevorden was not simply another destination. Maria came out of the water for inspection and certification work, hull maintenance and blacking — preparing a 1931 vessel for the seasons ahead.

Maria fully out of the water at the Coevorden yard
Maria ashore at Coevorden
Work beside Maria in the yard, with Oscar nearby
Inspection, maintenance and blacking — with Oscar supervising. · 8 July
Blacking beneath Maria’s stern · 8 July
Hull, rudder and propeller after blacking · 9 July
A closer look at Maria’s riveted bow while ashore.

Back afloat · 12 July

Out on the IJsselmeer.

The IJsselmeer was a complete shock. Spray broke across Maria’s foredeck, but she handled it brilliantly.

Oscar standing at Maria’s rail and looking ahead
Oscar, interested in the next stop.
Spray breaking across Maria’s bow with rough water and the open horizon ahead
The IJsselmeer crossing · 12 July · spray across the foredeck

Amsterdam · 18–19 July

A new crew member.

A few days later Harry arrived in Amsterdam to join Maria. It did not take long for Harry and Oscar to settle into life on deck.

Harry arriving with luggage to join Maria in Amsterdam
Harry arrives · 18 July
Harry and Oscar resting together on Maria’s deck
Harry and Oscar, settled in aboard · 19 July
Harry reacting to the many parked bicycles in Amsterdam
Bikes, bikes, bikes — Harry discovers Amsterdam.

South again · Belgium · October

The season continues.

The return carried us through Maastricht, Liège, Namur, Mons, Compiègne and L’Isle-Adam. At the Strépy-Thieu boat lift on the Canal du Centre, a vertical difference of 73.15 metres became part of the route. We reached Moret-sur-Loing in November, after 379¼ cruising hours and 158 locks.

Maria approaching the Strépy-Thieu boat lift on the Canal du Centre
Strépy-Thieu · Canal du Centre · 21 October

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